Lipstick types can be divided into moisturizing, satin and transparent, matte, cream, pearl and scrub, gloss, long-acting and anti-transfer lipsticks 3. Typical lipsticks include:
Emollients (which also help disperse paint) : 35-70%
Structural agent: 15-30% (usually a mixture of two or five ingredients)
Pigments: 4-10%
Pearl/gloss: 0-11%
Matting agent: 0-6%
Wear composition: 0-6%
Essence/Essence: 0-0.2%
Preservatives/antioxidants: 0.2-0.7%
Lipstick construction agent
The types of structural agents used in lip balm formulations include waxes, polymers, particles (such as silicon dioxide, organic clay) and fiber network formers. The most commonly used structural agents include:
Rotten stone
beeswax
polyethylene
microcrystalline
It is essential to use a mixture of crystallized and amorphous waxes that reduce the crystal size when cooled, resulting in good oil adhesion/compatibility and bonding strength. Common combinations include:
Zeolite/microcrystalline
Polyethylene/microcrystalline
Polyethylene/cubic zeolite
Beeswax Carnauba
Lipstick emollient
Emollients are an important ingredient in lipstick and can affect the use, color, application and gloss of the product. The best emollients are usually high molecular weight, viscous ingredients that do not spread quickly on the skin. This helps prevent bleeding, as well as feather or capillary action of the product into the skin creases around the lips.
Emollients that typically provide gloss are viscous, provide buffering, and have a refractive index in excess of 1.49. Common emollients include:
lanolin
Castor oil
Diglyceride diglyceride (synthetic Lanolin)
Shea butter
Poly (butylene
Hydrogenated polyisobutylene
Triisostearate citrate
Recipe Tips 4
Lipstick is usually divided into three stages: pigment grinding, wax base and dilute oil mixture.
A pigment grinding premix that has been highly shear treated in a viscous emollient such as castor oil is used through a roller mill or Kady mill. Good dispersants should also be included.
Good oil adhesion can be obtained by using a mixture of crystalline wax and amorphous wax. Most sticks contain three to five structural waxes.
Small changes in the formulation can sometimes make a big difference in hardness, crystal size and appearance.
The lipstick should harden quickly and come out of the mold easily.
The wax must be added to allow the lip to contract adequately when cooled for good demoulding. This includes a small amount of wax that melts to a temperature higher than the forming temperature, which is helpful in order to speed up the terrain core during cooling.
It is sometimes difficult to produce lipstick that is stable over a wide range of temperatures. Materials that are liquefied or solidified within a rod at different temperatures change the texture and surface appearance of the rod over time. Cocoa butter melted at human temperatures is a good example of a material that can produce this effect.
The polarity of the oil and wax used should be close enough to blend easily when the lip balm melts before it is formed. Problems may arise if excessive amounts of microcrystalline wax are used in high castor oil containing lip balm, which has limited solubility in polar castor oil.
Use materials that produce small crystalline structures. A larger crystal will reduce the glossiness of the rod. Microcrystalline waxes help form smaller crystals.
Use gas phase silica in the formulation to improve the effect, reduce pigment deposition and reduce oil stains.
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